An island worth leaving Rhodes for.

The first glimpse of Symi comes from the water. As your boat turns into Gialos, rows of neoclassical houses rise step by step up the hillside behind the harbour. Fishing boats bob along the waterfront, backed by lively cafés and tavernas. For anyone staying on Rhodes, this is the start of a day that feels a long way from where you woke up.

Ferries run continuously between Rhodes and Symi through the high season, which makes the day trip an easy one. Once you dock, there is plenty in and around Symi Town to fill the hours before the return sail. Start down in Gialos, wander up to Chorio if the weather allows, settle in for a long lunch, and save part of the afternoon for the sea.

Start where the boat drops you: Gialos

Gialos deserves far more than a quick photo from the deck. Take a slow walk along the waterfront, past the fishing boats and the pastel mansions that give Symi Town its famous look. The clock tower is a handy landmark, and the narrow backstreets behind it are full of small shops, quiet cafés, and hillside homes.

Pay attention to the tops of the buildings as you go. In the 19th century Symi was a wealthy hub for sponge diving and shipbuilding, and the captains painted their houses in bright ochres, warm reds, and deep blues. Tradition says the colours let sailors returning from long voyages spot their own homes from far out at sea. Look up at the triangular rooflines and you will also notice a small round window. Known locally as the ox eye (matovolos), it let air circulate under the roof, and island folklore held that it guarded the household against the evil eye (mati).

There is no set route to follow here. Part of the charm is simply strolling, ducking into side alleys whenever something catches your eye, and finding new angles on the harbour. Put the map away for a while and just explore.

Climb to Chorio before lunch

Behind Gialos, the Kali Strata staircase leads up to Chorio, the island's upper town. Roughly 500 stone steps connect the two neighbourhoods, winding past old houses and opening up wide views of the harbour as you climb.

Chorio is quieter and feels more lived-in than the waterfront below. The climb does need some planning in July and August, though. Five hundred steps under the midday sun is not for everyone. If you go, set off early, bring plenty of water, and take it at your own pace. If it is already too hot, or steps are a problem for anyone in your group, stay in Gialos. You are not missing the essence of Symi by skipping the stairs.

Savour the island flavours

Lunch here should be an event, not a quick stop. Claim a table by the water and work through the island's food. Symi is known across Greece for its seafood, and above all for Symi shrimp: tiny, sweet, locally caught, pan-fried and eaten whole, shell and all.

Beyond the shrimp, look out for gaelopita (a traditional local fish pie), octopus meatballs (htapodokeftedes), and poukkia (savoury cheese pies made with Symian goat cheese). Sit back with a glass of Greek wine, watch the boats come and go, and decide how you want to spend the afternoon.

Explore the coast by water taxi

Nos beach is a short walk from Gialos for a quick swim near town, but a small boat trip along the coast is the best way to spend the afternoon. Water taxis and excursion boats leave regularly from Symi Town for bays that can only be reached by sea.

• Agios Georgios Dysalonas (St George's Bay). Symi's most iconic beach, with a sheer 300-metre cliff rising straight up behind turquoise water. Swimming here feels like floating inside a hidden amphitheatre.
• Agia Marina. A clear, calm cove with a small islet and a whitewashed chapel at its centre. Ideal for snorkelling.
• Nanou Bay. A quiet pebble beach tucked under the hillsides, good for a longer swim away from the harbour crowds.

Pick one or two spots and settle in rather than trying to hop between beaches. The coastal cruise, the swim, and the slow pace are the point of the afternoon. Rushing defeats the purpose.

Panormitis needs extra planning

The Monastery of the Archangel Michael at Panormitis sits on the far side of the island and is one of Symi's most important religious sites. Some organised day-trip boats from Rhodes build in a stop at Panormitis alongside time in Gialos.

If your ferry does not stop there, it is best not to force it into a single day. Reaching Panormitis means crossing the island, which takes time away from Symi Town and the beaches. It is a beautiful place, but it works much better when it is part of your transport route than tacked on at the last minute.

Before you sail back to Rhodes

Head back to Gialos with enough time for one last walk along the water before departure. Get an iced coffee, browse the small boutiques, or find a shady bench by the dock. The harbour that greeted you in the morning will feel much more familiar by now.

One key detail: double-check the exact departure point and time for your return boat. Different operators dock in different spots along the harbour, so confirm where yours leaves from before you wander off.

Then comes the same view in reverse. Gialos slowly recedes, the pastel houses shrink against the hillside, and the boat turns back toward Rhodes. You will not have swum every bay or walked every trail, but you will have seen more than enough to understand why Symi is worth the crossing.